A TASTE OF NORTHLAND WITH DEAN THOMPSON AND BRENTON LOW

 
 

The seaside settlement of Tutukaka was buzzing recently when two of their favourite chefs teamed up for a mid-winter collaboration at Schnappa Rock. Head chef Dean Thompson welcomed Brenton Low from Woodfired Marina Dining into his kitchen, where they crafted an exceptional culinary experience for their guests.  Both chefs are Beef + Lamb Ambassadors: Dean, the youngest to receive the honour, and Brenton, more of a veteran holding the Platinum accolade, which is awarded to only a handful of New Zealand chefs.

For Dean, this dinner was a blend of nerves and excitement - a long-held dream being realised. The event represented a significant milestone in his career, as he had long admired Brenton. The collaboration was more than a showcase of culinary excellence; it was a celebration of mentorship, community, and the shared passion for creating unforgettable dining experiences. For the people of Tutukaka, it was an event that brought warmth to a winter's night and highlighted the unique spirit of their town.

Dean said while he felt the pressure in the kitchen, he had full confidence in the menu they had created using some of Northland’s finest produce. The menu showcased the unique talents of both chefs and began with a selection of amazing snacks that teased the palate and hinted at what was to come.

One of the snacks featured Dean’s deconstructed beef and cheese pie, made with braised Northland brisket, pickled onions, and a decadent cheese sauce. It was a mouthful of pure comfort, capturing all the flavours of a traditional pie in a single bite. Brenton’s first offering was seared beef accompanied by miso mayo, sesame, and soy, which introduced a delightful freshness to the palate.

From here it became more evident just why both these chefs are Beef + Lamb Ambassadors as they crafted the next four courses, highlighting the versatility and flavour of New Zealand grass-fed beef and lamb.

The first main course was a Northland eye fillet tartare with a crispy potato, goats’ cheese mousse, truffle mascarpone, created by Dean.  His intention was to make this more of a winter dish by incorporating the egg yolk into the tartare and serving it atop the truffle mascarpone and a crispy potato gratin to add a bit of warmth and texture to the tartare.  The goats’ cheese mousse added a creamy richness to the dish.

 
 

Brenton took charge of the next course – arancini with slow cooked merino lamb shoulder, mushroom and cauliflower cheese.  The best way to describe this was roast lamb encased in a crispy ball of goodness.  This was a divine dish which embodied everything about the traditional kiwi roast lamb in a very special way.

The next course was Dean’s Hibachi-grilled Lumina lamb loin with a braised rib, chimichurri, harissa yoghurt, dukkha, olives and broccolini.  I can’t go past this dish without talking about the fat cap! It’s not something I would normally highlight, and we know chefs love to leave it on as fat is flavour, but this was next level – or in Dean’s words – “it’s yum!”

His secret was curing the lamb loins overnight in sugar, salt, paprika and onion powder. Chargrilling over a flame added that subtle smokiness before finishing them off in the oven.  The rib was delicate in size and flavour, graced with locally foraged Kawakawa gel and a sprinkle of dukkha. This was a bold dish with lots of flavours, blending harmoniously to create a savoured eating experience.

Brenton’s final dish was an ingenious nod to his newly acquired Pizzeria business!  Beef two ways – beef sirloin and short rib with a tomato fondue, salted buffalo curd and olive jus.  Brenton cleverly managed to combine all the flavours of an Italian pizza onto one plate, with the beef short rib wrapped in prosciutto a highlight of the dish.

 
 

We finished the evening with the most divine dessert – lemon meringue ice cream with a steamed pudding, cheesecake and berry compote.  All our favourite desserts on one plate – pure indulgence.

By the end of the evening, we had been warmly welcomed and embraced by the locals. With everyone leaving with a smile, it was clear that our Beef + Lamb Ambassador Chefs had successfully brought their community together. It’s rare for such a small community to have two award-winning chefs in their midst, and I’m certain this won’t be the last time they collaborate.

For Dean, it was a massive success, showcasing his culinary talents while demonstrating how two hospitality outlets can work together rather than compete.

For Brenton, with his long association with Beef + Lamb New Zealand as a Platinum Ambassador, it was an opportunity to work with a younger generation of chefs. He enjoyed creating more upscale dishes, reminiscent of his aDeco days, but aiming to incorporate some of the flavours from his pizzeria in a sophisticated way. We think he nailed it, showcasing the versatility of New Zealand beef and lamb and how it adapts to various flavour profiles.

For us, it was one of the most unique Ambassador Series Dinners we have ever attended. Each dish defied our expectations, offering a deliciously different experience that left us wondering—what’s next for Dean and Brenton?

Lisa Moloney